Are you under-washing your hair?

An expert's take on some common hair care questions
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In a nutshell
As an everyday hair washer, I've always wondered what evidence exists to back up the claim that "overwashing" your hair is bad for you. Well, with the help of board-certified dermatologist Jose Diego Mier, I looked into it. And I was surprised at what I found. Get the full story below.
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Ginger Wojcik
Newsletter Editor, Healthline
 
 
  Written by Ginger Wojcik
August 23, 2023 • 4 min read
 
 
 
Are you actually <i>under</i>-washing your hair?
what's got us buzzing
Are you actually under-washing your hair?
Word on the internet is that over-shampooing leads to either oilier locks or dry, damaged strands. These claims have helped fuel the rise of the no-poo and co-washing methods. But while skipping shampoo may work well for those with curly or dry hair, there isn't great evidence that fewer washes are better across the board. Here's what we do know:
  • Overwashing your hair doesn't make it greasier. Yup, there's actually no basis for this common claim, according to Mier. In fact, he says that the amount of oil produced by your scalp is genetically predetermined and may not be possible to change at all.
  • It may be better for your scalp to wash hair more frequently. According to a 2021 review of two studies, fewer weekly hair washes can lead to a buildup of sebum, an itchy scalp, dandruff, and seborrheic dermatitis.
  • For people of Asian descent, five to six washes a week may be ideal. The same review found that for people in this population, more weekly washes didn't harm hair and made people feel better about themselves overall.
OK, so how often should I wash my hair, really? It depends! "The more I work with patients with different hair types, I get convinced that you can wash hair as frequently as you need in order for [it] to look pleasant," says Mier. "If we were to categorize, I suggest oily hair be washed daily or every other day; frizzy or dry hair — around three times per week."

Everything else you need to know about how to properly wash your hair.

Tell us: How many times a week do you wash your hair? Let us know at wellnesswire@healthline.com! (Please note that we may use your name and response in an upcoming edition!)

More from us on hair health:
 
 
 
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Supergoop! Poof 100% Mineral Part Powder
Supergoop! Poof 100% Mineral Part Powder
We don't usually think of it this way, but your scalp is really just an extension of your face. And what's the most important step to caring for skin on your face? That's right, sun protection. You could try slathering sunscreen lotion onto your scalp or a more effective part powder like this mineral option from Supergoop! With a rating of SPF 35 PA+++, it offers more protection against ultraviolet A rays than regular broad-spectrum options.
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An expert weighs in
Q: Is there any way to manage the amount of sebum the scalp produces?

A: You cannot really control the amount of sebum that your body naturally produces as a protective barrier. Sebum production is essential for a healthy scalp microbiome, so the best thing you can do is maintain this process. To manage oily hair, you can only do proper hygiene so that your pores would not clog. Reduce combing so as not to spread the oil throughout the hair length.

Jose Diego Mier, board certified dermatologist
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
You might not want to throw out your shampoos with sulfates after all
Wednesday Kick Start
You might not want to throw out your shampoos with sulfates after all
If your shampoo bubbles and lathers, there's a high chance it contains a sulfate. These anionic surfactants are super effective at cleaning away oil and dirt. That's why they've been used in detergents, shampoos, and other cleaning products for decades.
Recently, there's been a shift toward sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates are so good at cleansing that they can strip away your natural oils, leading to dry, brittle hair that's prone to damage. But sulfates can be beneficial, too.
They're great at removing buildup. Using a clarifying shampoo (aka one that contains a sulfate) can remove buildup on the hair and scalp from oil- and silicone-based products. "When used once a week or rarer, they should not harm your scalp that much," says Mier.
Pro tip: Use clarifying shampoos with cool water. Some studies show higher irritation rates when sodium lauryl sulfate comes into contact with hot water, says Mier.
✅ Sulfate shampoos may also work well if you:
have dandruff
have oily hair or an oily scalp
❌ Limit sulfate shampoo if you:
have dry, frizzy, or curly hair
have dry or sensitive skin, or rosacea
have a sulfate allergy
More on washing your hair:
How to repair damaged hair
How mild shampoo can help your hair health
Co-wash versus shampoo: Which is better?
 
 
 
 
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